WEBVTT

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Hey, I'm Mark Bittman, and I'm grateful to Signature Kitchen Suite for bringing me here in New Orleans.

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A city like no other, thanks to its blend of cultures, its incredible architecture, its amazing food, its joie de vivre.

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I'm here today to meet with a young chef who's returned to her community to create a cultural exchange with her amazing creations.

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And, quite literally, through her kitchen windowsill.

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[Music]

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[Music]

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Making French pastries beautiful, delicate, and appealing is a lot of work.

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The craft requires a determined spirit and the heart of an artist.

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And that describes Caitlin Gurren to a T.

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And she knows her little masterpieces are only as good as what goes into them.

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So fresh ingredients are paramount.

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Hey.

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Hi Mark, how are you?

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Good to meet you.

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Welcome to New Orleans. It's a pleasure.

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It's great to be here.

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Well, we're at the Elysian Bar. We're heading inside.

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Yeah, let's go talk some pastry.

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Absolutely.

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[Music]

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So, Caitlin, you're from here, right? Originally?

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I am from here. Born and raised.

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And what was it like?

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It was, I guess, like an experience like no other.

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Festivals multiple times of the year, Mardi Gras, Jazz Fest, you know, you're just always having a reason to celebrate.

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Always.

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It's amazing.

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Right? There's always something to celebrate.

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There's always a reason to eat good food, to be around family and friends, and always a reason to come together.

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And at some point, you left?

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After undergrad, I went to California.

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And what took you to California?

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I studied dance and exercise science.

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And that's kind of when I realized that I love to express myself through movement, and I love to be creative through movement.

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But there was another opportunity to create and be expressive through my art.

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And that was through pastries and baking desserts.

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Tell me what you were cooking when it started.

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I started making a lot of really bad cakes.

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[Laughter]

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That's always kind of how it starts, right?

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And you went to culinary school in...?

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In Napa, I went to the Culinary Institute at Greystone.

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I'm really happy that I made that decision.

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Right. I think that cooking, you can learn intuitively, you can teach yourself, etc., etc., but real pastry making, you need lessons.

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You do. You do.

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To have hands-on, full-time experience working in a kitchen with professional instructors and chefs, you know, I learned so much in such a short amount of time.

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So you had sort of achieved pretty quickly what you wanted to, and yet when you came back here, it sounds like you kind of realized maybe that wasn't what you wanted.

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It was actually less about being in the kitchen space and more about taking an opportunity while I'm in New Orleans to invest back in the city.

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Right.

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Yeah.

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So tell me how it started. What happened?

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Well, the pandemic happened.

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Yeah, I remember that.

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Yeah.

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I was making pies for my family friends and delivering them as best as I could, you know, March of 2020.

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And I thought, "Well, this is a great time just to kind of gather any ingredients I can before everything really shuts down and just start making pastries for folks."

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So I started off doing assorted pastry boxes, and then lagniappe became lagniappe.

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Not everybody is from here, and the word lagniappe is not.

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I don't think it's English. I don't know what it is. Is it Creole?

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French Creole.

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It means something, right?

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It means a little something extra.

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There you go. So great.

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I might give you something, but I'm also going to say, "Here's a little lagniappe."

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That's great.

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You know, so.

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It's okay. I mean, I love the weekly pastry box thing. I mean, to me, that's the coolest thing ever. But you evolved. Things changed. This is, we're in 2020 still, right?

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I've been running them outside of the house and transitioned my kitchen, my living room, to be an entire industrial kitchen.

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Really?

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Yeah. But I have this windowsill in the kitchen that opens up to the side yard.

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So what happens is that now lagniappe, you come in through the side yard, and you come into this windowsill, and you get to receive the pastries from me through the windowsill.

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It's just, it's become such a cute, like, charming experience that I think is something you can really only get in a place like New Orleans, you know?

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I mean, it sounds wonderful. It really sounds lovely.

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Take care.

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So there's a way in which we've been talking about this as if you were a student. And indeed, all your stajas, the CIA, all your jobs, and so on.

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But now we're here. You've arrived. And you're doing this amazing stuff. And you have this super interesting, built-from-the-ground-up business.

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We're talking to an expert here.

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Thank you.

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Congratulations.

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Thank you. It is, yeah. I feel like there's still a lot more to learn.

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But this, for me, is the new chapter of where this business is going and how I'm going to continue learning and evolving the pastries into something new.

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Right.

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So some of the things you've talked about are local ingredients, seasonal ingredients.

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Let's, what I really like to do is dig into these literally, but let's dig into these figuratively.

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And yeah, talk about how this stuff reflects what you're thinking about in pastries these days.

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Yeah, so I think a lot of what we touched on is that these are intricate pastries, right?

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This is days' worth of work. It wasn't all done in a few hours. It's impossible.

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One of my favorite items on this table right now is the Meyer lemon curd tart.

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Citrus is seasonal in wintertime, obviously.

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And I think just a couple weeks ago at the farmer's market, we started seeing citrus pop up.

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Satsumas, navel oranges have always been here.

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Kumquats, I've got kumquats on top of the moose cake here.

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But I love Meyer lemons.

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And I would never think of them as a southern fruit.

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I love to utilize all parts of Meyer lemon.

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And each of these things gets made obviously separately, and each of them is stored, as you said,

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in a different temperature, a different way, a different length of time.

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And it's pretty precise.

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Yeah, yeah, it has to be. I mean, these pastries are temperature controlled,

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so they maintain their balance of flavor and texture.

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Time is the biggest factor on your side, right?

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It's a matter of, can I produce this element in one day or four days?

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And I think what's really important is having control over those particular degrees.

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These are pastries that I love to make for myself and for other people.

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I love to make these for my friends, for family, for holiday celebrations,

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outside of just pastry boxes and for my business.

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There you go.

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They're so pristine and beautiful. I mean, everyone deserves to have something like this.

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I mean, one of the things I love about stuff like this is that everybody loves them,

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and they bring people together, and you have such a great scene with your side yard and your window sill.

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But I'm especially happy that these have brought us together,

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because it's really been a joy to meet you and fun to talk with you, so thank you for that.

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Thank you, Mark. It's really been a pleasure as well.

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So enough talking. Let's eat some pastry.

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Absolutely.

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I'm going to go for a little.

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Okay, Kurt, I'm going to go for a little.

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Thanks.

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[Music]

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[Music]

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you

