Ever noticed how a trip to your local baker can feel like a visit to an art gallery? Blends of shiny golden creams, deep browns, and flashes of off-whites are displayed by experts who know their craft. It turns out they have a secret that makes all the difference: steam. Mark Bittman introduces us to Ellen King, co-owner and head baker of Hewn Bakery in Evanston, Illinois. Among many other things, they discuss the important role the best ingredients and the right equipment play in making bakery-worthy bread at home.