Cheese is a living thing. And cheesemaking is a true art that includes a wide range of tastes, textures, aromas, and character. A talented cheesemaker will use everything at their disposal, from wild bacteria and mold to precise temperatures and humidity, to make their delicious products. Mark Bittman introduces us to John Shuman and Marci Ebeling, a married couple in the Pacific Northwest who literally stumbled on the secret to making great cheeses when they discovered an ancient lava cave on their property. Bearing identical conditions of the famous Roquefort caves of France, John and Marci turn to the natural environment of their own caves to decide what cheeses they will produce. Suffice it to say, the cave knows what it’s doing.